Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum

***** (5 stars)

We began our exploration at the museum itself. The ground floor of the museum provides a fairly elaborate interpretation of some of Twain’s books, including Tom Sawyer, The Innocents Abroad, and his time in the gold rush territory of California. While these displays looked nice, they didn’t do a great job of conveying their message, especially to their intended audience, which seemed to be children.

The upper two floors of the museum did a much better job, displaying artifacts and artwork from Twain’s life and books. For those with the patience to read the detailed signage, there was a lot of interesting information here.

The museum ticket is available as a package that also grants access to other buildings down the street, and that’s definitely worthwhile. You can tour the homes that provided the inspiration for Tom, Huck and Becky, and all were interesting.

Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum
120 N Main St
Hannibal, MO 63401
(573) 221-9010
http://www.yelp.com/biz/mark-twain-boyhood-home-and-museum-hannibal

Mark Twain Cave

***** (5 stars)

This cave may not be filled with spectacular stalactites and other formations, but it is rich in history, since it is the cave from the Tom Sawyer novel (and four other Mark Twain books). Walking through its labyrinthian passageways really brings the book into focus, and the guides do a great job of identify various locations mentioned in the book.

It’s a very easy cave to traverse, with flat floors, no steps, and no climbing. It’s also a cool 52 degree respite on a hot summer day, so bring a jacket!

Mark Twain Cave
300 Cave Hollow Rd
Hannibal, MO 63401
(573) 221-1656
http://www.yelp.com/biz/mark-twain-cave-hannibal

Sayat Nova

**** (4 stars)

Most of the items I tried at Sayat Nova were fine, but not stellar. The hummus appetizer was a bit grainy but okay, and it was served with fresh warm pitas. The number 2 combination at lunch features a nice assortment. I really liked the salad dressing, and the stuffed eggplant was good. the Plaki was pretty thin and rather flavorless.

But the Spinach Boereg was phenomenal–a perfectly flaky philo triangle filled with scrumptious sautéed spinach. I would definitely go back just for this one item, and probably try some kebabs or other items, too.

Service was very friendly, and the decor is neat, although I ate on the sidewalk because it was a beautiful day.

Sayat Nova
157 E Ohio St
Chicago, IL 60611
(312) 644-9159
http://www.yelp.com/biz/sayat-nova-chicago

Peet’s Coffee & Tea

***** (5 stars)

For those who actually like coffee (as opposed to those who drink Starbucks swill diluted with sugar and dairy products) Peet’s is one of the very best coffee chains. This location is particularly nice, and the outside seating is particularly, particularly nice, located in the Wrigley Building’s breezeway, where you can watch the tourists on their way from Michigan Avenue to the Trump and the Riverwalk. It’s a great place for an iced coffee on a hot day. Or visit the Ghirardelli  chocolate store next door, and have that with your hot coffee indoors on a cold winter’s day.

Peet’s Coffee & Tea
400 N Michigan Ave
Ste 120
Chicago, IL 60611
(312) 625-5531
http://www.yelp.com/biz/peets-coffee-and-tea-chicago-16

Quartino

**** (4 stars)

There is an overabundance of Italian restaurants in Chicago, and many have little to recommend them. Quartino is different, though, in that it takes a tapas approach to Italian food, emphasizing small plates of antipasti.

The best way to experience this is through their Salumeria Tasting, which lets you choose seven items to your taste, including veggies, cheeses and meat, all accompanied by several additional sides.

Everything I tried was tasty and delicious, and it was a good way to experience a broad range of offerings.

Of course they also offer pizza, other entrees, and an extensive dessert list, and they brag that they have wine that is cheaper than water.

My server was very friendly, and I enjoyed a relaxed meal in one of their spacious dining rooms. There is also a large outside dining area.

Quartino
626 N State St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 698-5000
http://www.yelp.com/biz/quartino-chicago

Bistrot Margot

*** (3 stars)

I guess if The Colbert Report can drop the pronunciation of the final “t” then so can Bistrot Margot.

This is a perfectly average French bistro with a classic bistro menu. The most notable thing about it was that I happened to be there on a Wednesday, when they have a three course special that allows you to select any appetizer, entree and dessert for $29, a good deal.

I chose the escargot, the bouillabaisse and a berry cake with vanilla ice cream. None of them were particularly noteworthy, but they weren’t bad. The bouillabaisse broth could have used more flavor and fresher shellfish, but otherwise everything was fine, just not great.

Service was friendly, and the outside eating area is pleasant. No need to make a special trip here, but if in the area and you have a French craving, it might be worth a try.

Bistrot Margot
1437 N Wells St
Chicago, IL 60610
(312) 587-3660
http://www.yelp.com/biz/bistrot-margot-chicago

Mezcalina

***** (5 stars)

At last! My search for a great, authentic Mexican restaurant in downtown Chicago is complete. Mezcalina is the real deal.

It’s located off the bucolic but hard to find Lake Shore East Park (go down a four story spiral staircase at the end of N Park Dr south of Wacker). The space (and even the dishes) are shared by the Black Coffee Company. Beautiful large murals grace the walls, and a decorative bar runs along one side.

Of course there is a full bar with a wide range of tequilas and mescals, but I tried a bottled sangria soda, a non-alcoholic concoction that tasted a lot like sangria.

Complimentary tortilla strips are served with two excellent salsas, a red and a green.

I started with the ceviche tasting, which featured shrimp, octopus, and the day’s special, corvina. All were good, but the octopus was outstanding, tender and bursting with fresh flavors, the best octopus ceviche I’ve had.

Nearly all of the menu is authentic Mexican (with the exception of nachos) so of course I tried the tacos. A bargain at only $3 each, they are served on traditional corn tortillas (single ply, though, not double as in Mexico). Each was served with handfuls of fresh cilantro, a wedge of lime, and raw or pickled onions, according to type.

The carne asada was a bit chewy, but the pollo mole was wonderful–tender, moist and suffused with the rich, dark, slightly bitter sauce. But the pork pibil was the most remarkable, with layers of complex flavors from the marinade, and huge hunks of tender shredded pork. Definitely the best pibil I’ve had anywhere.

I sat at the bar, and the bartender was friendly and helpful.

This is definitely a place I’ll be returning to often. Yay! Real Mexican food in Chicago!

Mezcalina
333 E Benton Pl
Ste 100
Chicago, IL 60601
(312) 240-5000
http://www.yelp.com/biz/mezcalina-chicago

Big Bowl

**** (4 stars)

It’s easy to classify Big Bowl as another fast casual chain, but that really understates how nice this location is, with its elaborate and beautiful interior design and hands-on management and staff.

The concept is a mix of Chinese, Thai and Mongolian barbecue, so there’s likely to be something for most people. I enjoyed the very fresh tasting spring rolls, which were cut up like a sushi roll rather than served as a log; great idea.

Pad Thai was tasty, heavy on the lime and cilantro. I had the shrimp version, but the chicken version might be a bit more traditional.

There’s a reasonable list of alcoholic beverages that match the food. House-made ginger ale is a good non-alcoholic choice.

Service was fast and friendly. The manager visited and even comped me a cucumber amuse bouche as a first time visitor.

Big Bowl
60 E Ohio St
Chicago, IL 60611
(312) 951-1888
http://www.yelp.com/biz/big-bowl-chicago

Havana

** (2 stars)

I loved the ambience of this place, which looks and feels exactly like a cafe in old Havana.

Unfortunately, that’s where the love stopped. As someone who lives much of the year in Florida, I’ve had a lot of Cuban food at many different restaurants, and I’ve never encountered anything like what is served here.

First off, the lunch menu has been taken over in part by Tex-Mex items such as quesadillas, not a good sign. Perhaps foolishly, I stuck with something that sounded authentically Cuban, and had the Pollo from the dinner menu, along with a cup of black bean soup.

Good black bean soup is smooth, with plenty of whole beans and crispy bits of onion. This gritty slurry had none of those characteristics.

Traditional Cuban chicken is roasted, with a crisp, garlic coated skin and moist interior, exactly as described on the menu. What showed up, though was a soggy mess covered in a weird salty white gravy that had almost no flavor.

It had more flavor than the “congri,” it was served with, though. That mixture of rice and black beans was dry and utterly flavorless. Fried yucca was similarly flavorless, but had a nice crisp exterior.

The saving grace on the plate were the ripe plantains, which were perfectly caramelized and still hot from the sauce pan. Sadly, one out of five is not enough to get me to ever return.

It’s a shame because the service was efficient, and the place looks great. They just need major adjustments in the kitchen.

Havana
412 N Clark St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 644-1900
http://www.yelp.com/biz/havana-chicago-2

Mariano’€™s Fresh Market

***** (5 stars)

I think I’m in love.

I’ve always considered the ultimate grocery store to be Southern California’s Gelsons (although many vote for Wegman’s, where I’ve never been) with The defunct Florida Gooding’s a close second. But Mariano’s certainly has those two beat.

Basically it’s like Whole Foods plus normal foods, plus a good wine, spirits and liquor store.

I love the vast variety of produce, the way everything is displayed, the logical arrangement of the two levels of the store, the extensive cheese offerings, and the large international section.

It’s great to be able to get organic produce, gourmet products and everyday packaged foods (okay, junk) without having to visit Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s and Jewel. Mariano has it all. Although I’m not a comparative shopper, prices also seems quite reasonable.

The employees I met were very helpful and cheerful, and the whole store seems like a great place for everyday shopping and discovering new goodies.

I think it will be a long honeymoon.

Mariano’s Fresh Market
333 E Benton Pl
Ste 206
Chicago, IL 60601
(312) 228-1349
http://www.yelp.com/biz/marianos-fresh-market-chicago-2