At the upper end of fine dining restaurants are places that transcend simply serving astonishing food and create an entire environment for enjoying it. Vespertine is one of those places.
From the moment you lay eyes on the dramatic, custom-designed building, you know you’re in for something special. Here, the journey is part of the story, beginning with a tour of the kitchen on the third floor, descending to the dining room on the second, and finally ending your visit in a dessert lounge at ground level.
It’s easy to defend Vespertine as the finest restaurant in Los Angeles. For me, it is among the top in the country, ranking up there with Single Thread in Healdsburg and the original version of Eleven Madison in New York City. It exists at that ideal Michelin two-star level where chefs are not afraid to take risks, and the service has not yet become a regimented, stiff, and formal process that renders a place soulless. On the contrary, the service at Vespertine is embracing, informative, and fun.
And the food! Of course that’s what it’s all about, and Vespertine does not disappoint. The emphasis here is on hidden layers, often found at the bottoms of exotically assembled bowls. It’s hard to total the number of courses because several of them are served in stages or comprised of multiple components. But nearly everything was a home run. The strengths relate to the incorporations of vegetables, fruits, exotic herbs, and especially flowers. There’s nothing wrong with the proteins either. A spring lamb is glorious. The quail also superb. The kinmedai perhaps the only miss.
But for me, the meal revolves around the obsidian mirror. The dish defies description, both visually and on the palate. Its iridescent texture is unlike anything I’ve ever consumed, and although the entire dish is probably comprised of less than one tablespoon, it should be appreciated in a dozen or more tiny little bites where every element of flavor and texture can be savored. I simply can’t explain it any further. You must experience it.
Often I find wine pairings to be comprised of sommelier favorites that are high acid, obscure, and not necessarily wines that could be enjoyed on their own, even if they do happen to match the food they are served with. None of these are problems at Vespertine. The Vinifera pairing consists of mostly old-world wines of high pedigree that superbly match their courses and are each notable wines standing on their own. The more expensive Optivus pairing swapped out three wines for bigger names. While all three replacements were fine wines, I’m not sure whether the additional cost is justified as the Vinifera pairing was quite stellar on its own.
At $295 pp plus wine pairing Vespertine is not inexpensive, but for the quality of the food, the experience, and the wine, I think the price is well justified and compares well with the other great dining experiences in the country and the world. It’s certainly in my top five, worldwide.
