Category Archives: French

La Grenouille

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***** (5 stars)

La Grenouille is still doing things the same way as when they were founded in 1962, and that’s a good thing. I remember when the world was full of restaurants like this: posh, refined, attentive, traditional, and oh so French. Now it is the last of its kind.

The three course menu is pricey at dinner, but not absurd, and essentially the same food is available at lunch for less than half the price.

The wine list is mostly French (of course) and offers some values for those who browse carefully.

One thing you wouldn’t find on the 1962 menu was the sea bass tartare we started with, which was refreshingly limey and served on an avocado base.

Soufflés are the specialty here, and the cheese shuffle was superb as a main course. The Dover sole was extremely traditional, but perhaps not worth the upcharge, as cooking styles for fish have changed, and left this old standard seeming overdone and bland.

A half dozen or more soufflés are also on offer for dessert, and are a great choice. Alternatively, the cheese plate offered a great variety. A basket of madeleines and other pastries, and some truffles finish things off.

Service was very French and very professional, yet managed to also be welcoming and conversational. Let’s hope that La Grenouille can continue to carry on its tradition for another fifty years.

La Grenouille
3 E 52nd St
New York, NY 10022
(212) 752-1495
http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-grenouille-new-york

Bistro Voltaire

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**** (4 stars)

There are quite a few restaurants in and around River North that claim to be authentic French Bistros, but most of them really aren’t. This one is pretty much the real deal.

The intimate space is busy yet not loud, and the menu offers authentic bistro dishes such as Bouillabaisse and Salad Lyonnaise. We particularly liked the Rack of Lamb, which was served in a red wine sauce with a touch of sweetness to it. Food pricing is very reasonable.

A small to medium selection of fairly obscure French wines offers a few excellent selections if you look for the good years. Wine pricing is fairly reasonable.

Service was friendly, a bit overwhelmed on a busy Saturday, but they coped nicely.

Bistro Voltaire
226 W Chicago Ave
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 265-0911
http://www.yelp.com/biz/bistro-voltaire-chicago

Le Colonial

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**** (4 stars)

This popular restaurant serves well prepared and beautifully presented Vietnamese food in a French Colonial setting. Don’t expect French fusion cooking, as there is little French culinary influence, but the setting will definitely transport you to 1950s French Colonial Vietnam.

We put ourselves in our waiter’s hands, and he knocked it out of the park, serving us two appetizers, two salads and two entrees. Nearly all of them were something we would not have ordered, but will definitely order again. We preferred the appetizers and salads to the entrees, and would concentrate on those areas of the menu on our next visit.

We began with a ravioli that was made from amazingly thin and delicate layers, and bursting with flavor. This was probably my favorite dish. We also had the wok seared monkfish, which was slightly spicy, and served with crisp sesame crackers.

Our salad course consisted of a filet mignon and watercress salad (reminiscent of Thai waterfall beef) and a lotus root and crispy tofu salad that was a knockout. Not being a big tofu fan, I would never have ordered this, but it was my other favorite.

Our entrees were a sautéed shrimp dish, and sautéed filet mignon with yams and green beans.  These were both good, but not as good as the previous dishes.

For dessert we had an ice cream and macaroon dish that was fine, but not special.

A nice selection of wines designed to accompany the food is available, with a particularly fine selection of Champagnes by the glass.

In addition to the downstairs space, there is a bar and clubbier upstairs dining room.

Obviously we enjoyed the service, as our waiter created this excellent meal for us!

Le Colonial
937 N Rush St
Chicago, IL 60611
(312) 255-0088
http://www.yelp.com/biz/le-colonial-chicago

Bistrot Margot

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*** (3 stars)

I guess if The Colbert Report can drop the pronunciation of the final “t” then so can Bistrot Margot.

This is a perfectly average French bistro with a classic bistro menu. The most notable thing about it was that I happened to be there on a Wednesday, when they have a three course special that allows you to select any appetizer, entree and dessert for $29, a good deal.

I chose the escargot, the bouillabaisse and a berry cake with vanilla ice cream. None of them were particularly noteworthy, but they weren’t bad. The bouillabaisse broth could have used more flavor and fresher shellfish, but otherwise everything was fine, just not great.

Service was friendly, and the outside eating area is pleasant. No need to make a special trip here, but if in the area and you have a French craving, it might be worth a try.

Bistrot Margot
1437 N Wells St
Chicago, IL 60610
(312) 587-3660
http://www.yelp.com/biz/bistrot-margot-chicago

Jardinière

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***** (5 stars)

This is exactly the ambiance I am looking for in a restaurant: dark and romantic, with the spectacular food in the spotlight on each table. A vibrant bar scene well-separated from a dining area where you can have an intimate conversation.

And yes, the food is great, too, with a traditional French flair tempered by lighter and more modern sensibilities.

There is a thoughtful winless, and the wait staff is friendly and obviously enthusiastic. Of all the restaurants we visited in San Francisco on this trip (and there were some great ones) we all agreed this is the one we would return to.

Jardinière
300 Grove St
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 861-5555
http://www.yelp.com/biz/jardini%C3%A8re-san-francisco-2

Keiko à Nob Hill

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***** (5 stars)

This intimate restaurant serves a set menu with all tables starting at the same time. The courses progress from light to medium, building to a magnificent piece of true Wagu beef. The food was good, and the service polished in that Michelin approved sort of way, but the thing that made the evening fun was the proprietor’s enthusiasm for the wines on his (very expensive) grand pairing. He has worked hard to collect rare bottles you won’t find elsewhere, and is proud to show off how well they math the food. These are prestige labels, but rather rare and fairly pricey wines that he obviously treasures. This enthusiasm is what elevated the meal to 5 stars for me.

Keiko à Nob Hill
1250 Jones St
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 839-7141
http://www.yelp.com/biz/keiko-%C3%A0-nob-hill-san-francisco-2

Jean-Georges

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***** (5 stars)

For more than a decade we’ve been coming here, and it remains our favorite restaurant in New York. The dining room is elegant and uncrowded, a rarity in the city.

The food is delicate, complex, and constantly evolving. The best deal in the city is lunch at Jean George, where you can assemble your own multi-course meal or choose a tasting menu for a fraction of the price of dinner.

The wine list pricing is excellent, and there is a nice selection of high quality wines by the glass or even half glass, making it easy to assemble your own wine pairings.

Service is professional, friendly and knowledgable, and even though we’re probably outnumbered by the staff, it never feels overwhelming, just perfect.

Jean-Georges
1 Central Park W
New York, NY 10023
(212) 299-3900
http://www.yelp.com/biz/jean-georges-new-york

L’Espalier

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***** (5 stars)

The wide range of reviews of this great restaurant on yelp indicate that it’s either quite inconsistent, or that it is attracting a lot of diners who may not be accustomed to fine dining.

I find the reviews that mention “stiff” service particularly puzzling. The service we experienced was professional, and yet extremely friendly. We engaged out server, his assistant, the maitre d’ and our sommelier in conversation, and all were extremely personable, and shared anecdotes and opinions with us.

I noted one reviewer who thought the food unremarkable, then revealed that dinner consisted of a salad and a rib eye. Seriously? Why have that dinner at this restaurant, even if it is possible?!

We had the chef’s tasting menu for a leisurely lunch that lasted almost three hours. Each course was a thing of beauty, and many of the taste combinations were inspired. Considering the ingredients (three courses included caviar, one included foie gras) the price was amazingly reasonable.

The matching wine pairing was actually more expensive than the food, but it was also worth it. Each wine was of excellent quality (for example, a Meursault and a Ch. Suideraut Sauternes) and a great match to the food.

The dining room is refined, quiet, and offers nice second floor views out onto Boylston.

All in all, this is one great restaurant, and I highly recommend it.

L’Espalier
774 Boylston St
Boston, MA 02199
(617) 262-3023
http://www.yelp.com/biz/l-espalier-boston

Le Bistro By Liz

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**** (4 stars)

We had a nice Sunday brunch at this lovely bistro. It has a light, open and airy feel due to all the windows, and the solarium at the front. Service is very friendly, and the menu combines traditional French dishes with more traditional brunch foods. Both the onions soup and the breakfast skillet were excellent. And brunch comes with a free drink, so it’s a good deal.

Le Bistro By Liz
1333 S Park Street
Halifax, NS B3J 2K9
(902) 423-8428
http://www.yelp.com/biz/le-bistro-by-liz-halifax

Clos Maggiore

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**** (4 stars)

Clos Maggiore has a well-deserved reputation as London’s most romantic restaurant. It’s convenient to the West End theatres, and open late enough to go after the show.

The food is reliable and elegantly presented, and the wine list ad Bas Armagnac are extensive and top notch.

But above all it’s the romantic atmosphere of the garden-like (but completely indoor) dining room that draws us back.

Clos Maggiore
33 King Street
Covent Garden
London, WC2E 8JD
+44 20 7379 9696
http://www.yelp.com/biz/clos-maggiore-london-2