Category Archives: Steakhouses

Siena Tavern

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**** (4 stars)

Despite its name, Siena Tavern doesn’t really come across as either Italian or a tavern. True, there is a list of pizzas, and they serve drinks, but it seems more like  a Hillstone concept to me.

The decor is open and modern, with a few too many hard surfaces to control the noise level when it’s busy (which seems to be most of the time).

We went for Sunday brunch/lunch, and I was pleased to find that while there were some very tasty looking brunch items, there were also lots of non-breakfast choices.

The chopped salad was an interesting conglomeration of vegetables, cheese and meat, and had enough juice from the artichoke hearts and other veggies that it didn’t really need the accompanying honey mustard dressing, so I’m glad I had that on the side.

The “burnt crust” pepperoni pizza wasn’t quite as charred as I would have liked, but it did have a very thin crust and good flavor.

Service was efficient, a necessity given how busy they were.

I’m not sure what would draw me back for a revisit (maybe some of the breakfast items, which looked really delicious and really bad for you) but my visit was fine.

Siena Tavern
51 W Kinzie St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 595-1322
http://www.yelp.com/biz/siena-tavern-chicago

Caprino’s Italian

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**** (4 stars)

Caprino’s is a much better restaurant than anything that has previously occupied this space. Run by Chef Stefano, who previously had the restaurant at the entrance to Summerport, and also has Stefano’s Grill in Dr Phillip’s Marketplace, Caprino’s strikes a balance between neighborhood Italian restaurant and sports bar.

The space is still the amalgam of Rialto’s ornate fine dining restaurant wrapped around a somewhat incongruous bar dotted with big screen TVs, but this serves the menu well, with its emphasis on combining traditional Italian dishes with sports bar food.

Whether your party wants wings, hoagies, pasta or pizza, there is likely something for everyone. And at the higher end, the beef is reportedly all prime; it and the seafood are butchered on site.

Our server was friendly and well-informed, and the service in general seemed quite polished for a restaurant open less than two months. On a moderately busy Friday night the kitchen was having trouble keeping up, which caused some service issues, but presumably these will be corrected.

The pizza is thin crust and has an authentic Naples taste to it. We tried two specials: the osso buco was heavily over-salted, but the lobster ravioli was well-prepared. Caesar salad is conventional and includes house made croutons.

Desserts are the same offerings as at Stefano’s Grill. The tira misu was generous.

Wine by the glass selections are somewhat limited, but there is a nice list of 29 bottles for $29 each, and also extensive cocktail offerings.

Chef Stefano was circulating throughout the dining room on the night we were there, and his hands on approach has certainly improved the experience at this neighborhood restaurant. So far it’s paying off with increased patronage.

Caprino’s Italian
7782 Winter Garden Vineland Rd
Ste 140
Windermere, FL 34786
(407) 500-3663
http://www.yelp.com/biz/caprinos-italian-windermere

Capa

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**** (4 stars)

The Four Seasons Hotel at Disney World is oddly the most austere Four Seasons I’ve been to, all hard surfaces and glaring lights. It’s the sort of place where the artwork is mostly square canvasses of one solid color.

Unfortunately, this austerity continues into the restaurants, including the flagship Capa on the 17th floor. What could be a real gem of a restaurant is defeated by an environment that sacrifices warmth for trendiness.

Certainly Capa has a lot to offer in the way of food. During a marathon evening of wine tasting we tried more than half the menu, and liked most of what we had.

The Hamachi Crudo, served with Clementines and a crunchy Horseradish topping was everyone’s favorite, and we had two orders and wanted more.

The Charcuterie Board was the best I’ve had. It includes Jamon Serrano, Cantimpalo, Lomo and we added some Iberico. The Lomo was particularly good.

The olive asortment included Arbequina, Gordal and Empeltre on the night we were there. Some were pitted, some not, and being served slightly warmed really increased their flavor profile.

The Shrimp coated with Chili were very pungent, a bit overwhelming with ours wines.

Patatas Bravas Potatoes looked like tater tots, but were amazingly fluffy, with a delicious Paprika and Black Garlic coating–some of the best potatoes I’ve ever had, and small enough to not feel guilty.

I’m not a big Pork Belly fan, but this version had been seared extra crispy, and I ate all of the generous portion.

The Octopus was chewy and lacked the crisp char needed to make it interesting.

Veal Cheeks had a gamey aroma that was quite unappealing.

The roasted Cauliflower was delicious, and served with a sunny side up egg for dipping.

For entrees we tried the 8 ounce Filet and the 12 ounce New York Strip. Both were prime. The filet, having been marinated, had an exotic succulence. The strip boasted a great smokey flavor from the grill and dry aging. Both were pretty pricey, but worth it.

The Bernaise Sauce was unusually thin (and a scanty portion) but proved to be a delicious dipping sauce for the strip, and its thinness actually made it a better accompaniment. It had lots of traditional Bernaise flavor.

The best side dish was the diced Carrot and Celery Root served with Pesto. The Swiss Chard and the Wild Mushrooms were both unremarkable. Yukon Gold mashed potatoes with Brown Butter were good, but not as good as they sound.

We also had an assorted dessert platter with ice creams, cakes, and some really good churros.

Service was up to the Four Seasons standard, with everyone extremely helpful and friendly.

Capa is lucky to have Jill Davis as Sommelier. She is perhaps Central Florida’s most knowledgable sommelier, and provided wonderful wine service and interesting comments on the wines we had. The wine list is superb, and excellently priced.

It’s worth the hunt for an unlocked door so you can view the Disney fireworks from the terrace outside, which is a welcome escape from the boxy dining room and open kitchen.

I wouldn’t hesitate to return to Capa for the great food and wine service, but it’s not a place I’d pick for a cozy or romantic evening. With different seating, surfaces and lighting I’d be there every week.

Capa
Four Seasons Resort
10100 Dream Tree Blvd
Orlando, FL 32836
(407) 313-7777
http://www.yelp.com/biz/capa-orlando

Harry Caray’s Restaurant

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*** (3 stars)

Let’s face it. One does not go to an airport for a fine dining experience. So when you get decent food in a sit down environment it makes you just a little more grateful than you’d be in other circumstances.

Harry Caray’s at Midway Airport is such a spot. The food is perfectly fine, including some nicely assembled sandwiches and some genuinely good salads.

The environment is crowded, noisy, and cluttered with luggage. In short, it’s at an airport. But you can sit (after a sometimes long wait) and have a decent meal and relax over a drink. That can’t be said of many other spots in this airport.

Service can be wildly variable. I’ve had everything from hyper-efficient to brusque to check for a pulse. Still, receiving any service at all in an airport is a novelty.

Harry Caray’s Restaurant
5757 S Cicero Ave
Chicago, IL 60638
(773) 948-6300
http://www.yelp.com/biz/harry-carays-restaurant-chicago-2

Mingos

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*** (3 stars)

This is the third venue I’ve been to in this space, and they don’t seem to be getting any better. I’m not sure what differences account for the emptiness of this place when there are lines on the sidewalk for places across the street.

But clearly one difference is the food quality, which is not improving through the various iterations. On a recent visit we sampled several appetizers that were half price during happy hour, including a very soggy flatbread made with limp naan bread, some mediocre mussels, and a very tasty “pork wing.”

We then preceded to the tomahawk steak for two. This was an excellent and perfectly cooked piece of beef accompanied by average asparagus and almost inedible au gratin potatoes.

I will say, though, that the steak was an excellent deal since it included the sides, two salads and a bottle of low end wine, all for $35 per person. Including additional drinks and all these courses, dinner only totaled $108, so definitely a good deal, mostly due to happy hour pricing.

The irony is that the best things we had were both meat, and this is a seafood restaurant.

There was nothing dreadful about the meal, but also nothing that would draw us back, so I think I’ll wait for the fourth iteration before trying it again.

Mingos
100 S Eola Dr
Ste 105
Orlando, FL 32801
(407) 781-2539
http://www.yelp.com/biz/mingos-orlando

Bull & Bear Steakhouse

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**** (4 stars)

This prototype for the Bull & Bear Steakhouses at other Waldorf Astoria hotels has history on its side. The dark woods and faux candlelight harken back to an earlier era, as do the large steaks and generously caloric side dishes.

Cut from the same cloth as the dozens of moderns steakhouses, the Bull & Bear manages to be unique simply through authenticity. Its unusually shaped bar is a particularly good spot to gather for a drink or to watch the stock ticker, as so many generations before have done.

Bull & Bear Steakhouse
540 Lexington Ave
New York, NY 10022
(212) 872-4606
http://www.yelp.com/biz/bull-and-bear-steakhouse-new-york-2

The Capital Grille

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SyndicateSept2014

***** (5 stars)

This is my favorite of all the Capital Grilles I have been to. Our wine group meets here in the back room, and the service is consistently superb, the venue perfect, and the glassware plentiful.

My favorite menu items are the crab cakes, lobster mac and cheese, wedge salad, and the kona crusted steak. Ask for the bone-in filet, which they sometimes have. My favorite side vegetable is the truffle fries. Creamed spinach and asparagus are also good.

Free valet parking is very convenient.

The Capital Grille
9101 International Dr
Orlando, FL 32819
(407) 370-4392
http://www.yelp.com/biz/the-capital-grille-orlando

Topolobampo

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*** (3 stars)

This is good, but not great Mexican food. It makes no claim to authenticity, which is fine, but it’s not all that creative, either. Some dishes are clearly mis-named. For example, a “quesadilla” appetizer was actually mini soft tacos. The only resemblance to quesadillas was that the tiny pinch of cheese in each one was melted into the meat stuffing.

Guacamole, margaritas and the mole sauce were all good, but there is a better version of each at other Mexican restaurants in town. The ceviche sampler is very good, with one of the three the clear winner.

The upscale dining experience is a nice change for a Mexican restaurant, although our waiter was not particularly friendly or competent. I’ve visited a couple of times, with similar results on both occasions.

For a more conventional (and louder) Tex Mex experience, you can also check out Frontera Grill next door.

Topolobampo
445 N Clark St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 661-1434
http://www.yelp.com/biz/topolobampo-chicago

Roka Akor

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**** (4 stars)

This place offers terrific ambiance, with a stylish, open plan that lets you view the 1900 degree robata grill from anywhere in the restaurant. There is also outside seating.

While several of the sashimi items we tried were excellent, the butterfish tataki was the event, comparable to the best sushi restaurants I’ve been to around the world. The other highlight here are the vegetables off the robata grill, which are all excellent. The Brussels sprouts and the mushrooms are particularly notable.

Roka Akor
4999 Old Orchard Ctr
Skokie, IL 60077
(630) 474-5039
http://www.yelp.com/biz/roka-akor-skokie

Bern’s Steak House

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***** (5 stars)

Well, there simply is no other place like Bern’s. With the greatest wine list on the planet, it’s a draw for wine enthusiasts all over the planet. There are thousands of gems on this list, many priced below auction level. We routinely enjoy Burgundies from the 1950s without breaking the bank. And there are a couple hundred wines by the glass. Plus dessert wines. Where else can you get a glass of 1834 Madeira?

The food is great, too. and the offerings have really expanded in the past three decades we’ve been going. It’s actually not my favorite steak, because I’m not a fan of dry aging, but there are hundreds of other selections. We just usually have four or five appetizers per person and then go up to the dessert rooms. Our favorite app is the caviar (choice of more than a dozen) served Bern’s style with little foams.

And what other restaurant has dessert rooms? Private little spaces, dark and romantic, made from wine vats! The perfect end to a spectacular evening, all at reasonable prices.

Bern’s Steak House
1208 S Howard Ave
Tampa, FL 33606
(813) 251-2421
http://www.yelp.com/biz/berns-steak-house-tampa